Fabric Bin

I had to share this because when I asked my husband if he had seen the fabric bin I sewed, he said no and I said, “But you moved it off the couch,” and he said, “You made that? I thought it was one we bought at the store.”

So yah, it’s pretty nice.

Here’s the pattern, a fine 2008 vintage Butterick that I, no doubt, picked up for a dollar at a Hancock Fabrics sale (RIP Hancock).


May, or may not have used Waverly fabric…

I bought this fabric at Walmart because it’s nearby and it’s cheap. They also have a fairly nice (if small) selection of decor and fashion fabrics.

This fabric is cotton, fairly lightweight (more fashion than decor) but I liked the French pattern. I used craft-weight interfacing and fusible web to create the body of the bin. The handles are made from pressed fabric strips with wide black ribbon attached with no-sew tape. It worked better than the pattern instructions which were to sew a thin fabric tube then flip it and press it. Also, I liked the contrast of the black ribbon on the inside of the handles.


It’s actually a bit floppier than I’d like it to be, so I think next time I’ll use stiffer interfacing or possibly foam core.


The inside lining called for a contrasting fabric which I did not do, but I think I will on my next bin.

Here it is full of Ikea pillow blanks and a comforter…


I used fabric glue and no-sew tape to finish the seams at the bottom (the bottom is connected to the inside of the bin sides, which are left open to insert the interfacing panels for structure.) Basting is for suckers.


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Tool Talk! Rigid Sink Installation Tool

I love to talk about DIY. And I love to talk about tools. So I’m sharing my faves!

This post is about my Rigid Sink Installation Tool. 


Only slightly obscene-looking…what could it be??

And here’s the other side.


The Rigid Sink Installation tool! Also, take fish oil- it’s good for you!

Look! It’s got a cut-out on one side, so you can slip it over water lines and use it vertically. Did I BLOW YOUR MIND or what??

The thing that sucks about any kind of plumbing repair is trying to get a wrench or pliers up under a sink or toilet. There isn’t enough room to use them horizontally and the wrench on a stick  (so-called basin wrench) is just a ticket to DISAPPOINTMENT TOWN.

This little number has slits and inserts for every water-related connection- plastic basin nuts, supply line nuts, and inserts for hex nuts and angle stop handles.

Insert for 7/8″ and 1″ hex nuts

Today we tackle a toilet leak. I quick inspection tells us the leak is at the nut connecting the supply line to the tank.


The offending leaky nut…also a PSA to clean behind your toilet.

We take out the hex insert and twist the tool onto the line…


Then turn it counter-clockwise (in the lefty-loosey direction, rather than the intuitive righty-tighty direction) to tighten the nut.


And we’re done! This is the point at which I generally yell “Fixed!” whether or not anyone is home to hear me. I suggest you do the same.

So that’s my current fave tool. I also used it recently to close a very stiff angle stop valve in my crawl space when my hose bib froze and started leaking.

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Beach House Laundry Makeover- Pt. 1

Even though we’re at the beach, we still need to do laundry. So this weekend we did a laundry room makeover at our beach house in Florence.


Laundry is behind this door…

Aaaand, here it is – this is the after-before picture. The actual before picture would have shown horrible stinky 1960’s tile and “kustom kabinets”. WOULD HAVE, but we didn’t take one before we scraped the tile bashed the cabinets off the walls.


Horrible cabinets were on the left over laundry area…


Painted with odor blocking primer- including the floor



Large ugly cabinet was to the left of the door. We bashed it off with a sledge hammer. It was most satisfying.

The laundry room had either been abused by pets, or possibly uninvited pets (ie: rodents, evidence of which I found in various areas) and it was super smelly. So, a few weeks ago,  after the tiles were popped up (we used a scraper but they gave us no resistance) we coated the entire room in odor and stain blocking primer- specifically Zinsser B-I-N which is a shellac-based primer. This primer requires either denatured alcohol or ammonia for clean up, so I decided to limit my paint brush use and sacrificed a paint roller (rather than clean it with ammonia.) Once the primer dried the smell was gone. Yay!

So that brings us to THIS weekend which was latex paint and new floors. I decided to spray the room with my paint sprayer, so first we mask.


And we prepare our person for paint spraying.


Ready for paint spraying and also uranium handling.

Yes. This is a haz-mat suit. Actually, it’s just a cover-all I bought at Home Depot, but it works great for spraying or any painting. The first time I used the paint sprayer I just wore my “paint clothes” and a baseball hat and my regular prescription glasses. But I soon realized that I couldn’t breath and my entire body was covered in light blue mist. So I sprung for the goggles (which will fit over my glasses) and the respirator mask which filters out paint particles. It’s super uncomfortable, but my eyes and lungs are worth it. SO ARE YOURS.

Here we are post paint:

I was able to spray about 70% of the room then my sprayer malfunctioned. Which is annoying because I had to roll the remaining wall AND I had plans to write a paint sprayer review (which would just be angry right now). At any rate, paint is completed, color is Urban Raincoat, Behr Ultra.

Paint is dry the next day and we start laying the floor. We have Allure vinyl planks in Country Pine. This is a floating floor that connects with sticky pads rather than tongue and groove.

We start at one corner and use paint sticks for spacers since we did not think about buying actual spacers.


Note the 1950’s fold-up yard stick (a gem found in laundry room cabinets before they were destroyed) that we used for a straight edge. 

The fact that this is a floating floor is important because the subfloor is slightly uneven.


When we get the end of the first row, we trim the plank the fit. Then the remaining piece of plank starts the next row. This ensures that the planks will be staggered more or less randomly, as opposed to a grid. They are easily trimmed with a razor and straight edge. If you don’t have a straight edge (or say, forgot to bring one from your suburban garage that’s just swollen with tools) you could simply use the 1950’s fold-up yard stick that we found hiding in the skanky old cabinets (pictured above).

Floor is down!




Allure Vinyl Plank in County Pine – very wood-like.

Final touch is MDF 1″ x 3″ trim molding.


At this point, my husband retires to the couch and I begin the Ikea shelving project. We’re installing the Algot series of shelving, consisting of permanently affixed wall rails and movable shelves and other accessories.


Ikea Algot with 15″ shelves and a drying rack


So we’re done until next time when the washer and dryer arrive and we install the remaining shelving unit. Check back in a few weeks for an update!!

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A Fast and Festive Pan Dinner- Chicken Enchiladas


Chicken and veggie enchiladas

Enchiladas have made it into my meal repertoire of late. My preference is chicken, but any protein will do. Or none!

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Carrots, spinach and green bell peppers

We are making chicken and veggie/just veggie enchiladas here (in case you have a mix of carnivores and herbivores in your household.)

I’m using large yellow corn tortillas which make pretty big enchiladas.

If you don’t want your enchiladas to become mushy you’ll need to crisp the tortillas a bit before rolling up the filling. Usually, this is done in a pan with some hot oil.

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Corn tortillas on a baking sheet, spritzed lightly with non-stick spray

However, because I’m lazy, er, efficient, I decide to spray the tortillas with non-stick spray and let them crisp slightly in the oven on low broil. Not only is this convenient and less messy but it reduces the calories.

They come out of the oven crispy but still pliable.

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Tortillas fresh out of the oven

Now for the meat filling. Any sort of cooked chicken will do: shredded thighs, chopped chicken breast, canned chicken. I am using rotisserie chicken (removed from carcass) from Costco. It comes in 3lb packages and this serving size will use about 1lb (453g) of chicken.


Rotisserie chicken seasoned with cumin, oregano and mild chili powder

Season the chicken however you like it. I like cumin and oregano, you can use taco powder, or cayenne if you like it hot.

To stuff enchiladas, use a silicone brush and brush enchilada sauce on inside of tortilla, then layer with veggies, meat and shredded cheese. I’m using pre-shredded cheddar and canned enchilada sauce (El Pato from Cash and Carry is the best).


Ready to roll!

I’m going to place each rolled enchilada in my baking pan covered with non-stick spray into which I’ve spooned about 1/2 cup of sauce.The last four into the pan will be vegetable/cheese only.


Enchiladas in pan, waiting patiently…

Then I use my silicone brush and lightly coat the tortillas. Reserve about a cup of sauce for serving.


Lightly coated with sauce

I cover with foil and place in my 350 F° (177 C°) oven. Cook covered for about 30 minutes, then remove foil, sprinkle with more cheese, and cook another 10-15 minutes. You want the tortillas to absorb the sauce but not be soggy or, conversely, dry.


Cooked enchiladas

Place enchiladas on a serving plate then spoon heated sauce on top and add a nice blop of sour cream. I prefer mine with chives.


You can substitute any of my ready-to-go suggestions with fresh cooked chicken, home-made sauce or hand-shredded cheese. My version keeps the prep time down to about 30 minutes.

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Spicing Up My Life- Installing Tiny Spice Shelves

As part of my ongoing endeavor to assemble every last still-boxed Ikea project in my home, I give you Bekväm- cute , tiny, wooden spice shelves with their own little jars.

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Just a little Ikea…

These little Swedish jewels are a snap to assemble. Assuming you read the directions and insert all the pieces in the correct order.

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Awesome hex driver

Partway through this project I thought I would be SO SMART and use my drill with a square bit to drive in these screws. In reality, they are a hex screw which requires a hex driver bit in a size I cannot currently locate (but know that I own. This is a good lesson to all of us to RETURN OUR TOOLS TO THEIR PROPER STORAGE LOCATIONS when we are finished with their services.)

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My drill with incorrect size and shape of driver bit. It seemed like such a great idea.

So when I realized that I had forgotten to insert the little rail prior to attaching the sides, I had to back out the screws– one of which I stripped using the wrong driver bit. Fortunately, the screws on the other side were still intact and I was able to back them out, insert rail and screw them back in (with awesome Ikea hex driver).

Installation (leveling, marking, screws) was similar to the rails, only this guy is only 16 inches and I was able to use wood screws in studs instead of anchors.

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Assembled and installed near stove.

And here is the entire ensemble in the Stove Cove.


Omni-functional stove area.

That concludes my Ikea Production for last weekend. I only have a few more Ikea objects left uninstalled/unassembled in the house. I’m hoping to wrap those up this month.

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Jazzing Up A Kitchen Corner- Wherein I Install More Ikea Backlog



The Ikea backlog is almost depleted. I purchased the kit for this kitchen wall rail about 3 months ago, prior to kitchen wall painting.


Fintorp kitchen rail comes with two brackets and one 22.5″ rail

The system is expandable if you want to install a longer rail. My rail is going to be placed on the wall to the right of my stove which is just barely wider than a standard counter top depth, so one rail will work for me.

First we mark the location of the back plates (which will connect to the brackets) on the wall. I’m using a level to make the marks. It’s not easy to photograph yourself using a level.

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Me and my gigantic level



You will need your own wall fasteners for this project as Ikea does not provide any type of screw or anchor with their hardware. I like the Ikea Fixa fastener kit for this purpose. It contains 6 different types and sizes of wood screws and 3 sizes of wall anchor.


This is the Ikea Fixa hardware kit, sold separately.


It is unlikely that you will be able to locate two wall studs spaced 22 inches from each other so you if you have common drywall/gypsum board you’ll want to use a drywall anchor.


Medium size anchor and 7/16 drill bit


Choose a drill bit that’s slightly smaller than the diameter of your anchor. You’ll want to be able to insert the anchor, but you want it to be very snug.


Anchor partially inserted into hole

Once the anchor is partially inserted, use a small hammer to tap it all the way in so it’s almost flush with the wall (but don’t squish it AND/OR damage your wall).


As the instructions below indicate (more or less) when you insert the screw into the anchor you’ll leave just a bit of space. Which allows you to slide the wall plate in snugly.


Ikea instructions featuring “ghost screw”, my screw is 1 1/2″. Note the head is domed and not flat.


We dry-fit the plate to make sure we’ve placed our anchors at the correct distance apart. Flat side out, beveled side in. Plate will slide in between the anchor and the screw.


Then we install the brackets, removing them a few times and adjusting the screws to make sure the fit is snug.



Tested for snug


Next we install the rail. Once the end of it is inside the far bracket (towards the back) I contort myself over the oven and place the end-cap on with my left hand. This will be easier to do if you are installing it on a portion of a wall that doesn’t terminate in a corner.


We leave one end off to add hooks.

Rather than the Cirque du Soleil-like moves I performed, you could also assemble the unit then attach it to the wall. But I like a challenge.

Now we insert rail into the other bracket and add the end-cap to the other side.


Voila! Relatively level.

Last step is to take your tiny hex-driver (allen wrench) and tighten the rails so they don’t slide (insert into hole at the bottom of each bracket).

And here it is with useful kitchen stuff on it.


Cute Ikea bucket and 10 hooks. The hooks are sold in packs of 5.

One more Ikea project done! But I’m on a roll, so please stand by for my next Ikea kitchen project —tiny spice shelves–coming this week!

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I Prepare For The Fruitless Winter- Canning 100 Lbs of Tomatoes

For the last two years I have felt compelled to can tomatoes. I actually want to can a lot of things- peaches, blackberries, strawberries. But the U-pick seasons are so short I always miss them. Tomatoes I can manage easily. They aren’t even ready until the end of the summer (like me). And they are super cheap to pick (I get them locally for .60/lb) which makes canning a break even compared to buying commercially canned tomatoes in the grocery store.

I picked these tomatoes in September, probably the 2nd week.


This is about 60 pounds of tomatoes

I don’t know what this tomato variety is called, but they are a basic globe and I picked them two years in a row. The year before last I also picked some heirloom tomatoes which look gorgeous, and taste delicious but are difficult to process for canning (thick skins and very tough and pulpy.)

Canning Equipment

Now then, I own a large pressure canner but so far I’ve only used it for water bath canning because I am essentially afraid of it. Because I canned tomatoes, which are an acidic fruit (and I also add lemon juice), I do not need to use the pressure function. However, were I to can a less acidic vegetable- like green beans or corn, or any type of meat, I would need pressure can to be sure my food was heated and sealed properly and safely.

The canning pot fits 7 quart jars or 12 pint jars. Mine is a Presto 23 Quart Pressure Canner. It comes with a bottom rack to keep your jars from touching the heated bottom. I also recommend a canning utensil kit- I bought this one: Norpro 6-Pc Canning Kit.


Regarding jars, I buy what’s cheap. I discovered that I prefer wide mouth jars for ease of packing and for stacking in the pantry. Canning jars are available everywhere, they are about $8-$10 per dozen and can be re-used year after year. I also use canning jars for wet and dry storage.

Coring, Peeling and Seeding

You could can tomatoes without seeding or peeling them but you will regret it. The peels turn into little red stems and the seeds, well, they’re seeds. Tomatoes grown by commercial growers and sold in grocery stores tend to have smaller, softer seeds that you may not really notice while cooking with fresh tomatoes. However, farm grown varieties tend to have tougher thicker skins ans larger seeds, so you’ll want to remove them.

First, core the tomatoes using a corer or a melon baller. You can use a paring knife too if you’re talented and it’s sharp. This is also a good time to check for any units with rot on them that you will want to reject for canning (but use fresh after cutting out the bad spot).


Tomatoes washed and cored, waiting patiently in bin

Next, you’ll need to submerge the tomatoes in boiling water followed by a quick shock in ice water to remove the skins, which should then slide right off. On my third batch, I discovered the magic of making an “x” on the bottom of the tomato with a sharp knife which helps the skins separate.


Tomatoes in boiling water, takes about 30-60 seconds for skins to loosen up. Also lids being boiled on back burner. 


Ice water pops the skins right off

So you’ll wind up with several containers of naked tomatoes.


Naked tomatoes…they needed the money

Now they need to be sliced, diced, crushed, or chopped, or made into sauce (depending on how you want to can them). I spent a lot of time chopping tomatoes last year only to find that step unnecessary when I actually used them. So I quarter mine. Quartering them makes them fairly to easy to seed as well. Actually they may be in eighths…so I guess I eight’ed them.


Tomato eighths still need to be seeded

Once they’re chopped I use my fingers to scrape out the seeds. You can waggle them around in their own liquid and that will swoosh many of the seeds out.


They are now ready to be canned. I pack them in quart and pint jars and add 1/4 tsp canning salt and 1 TBSP lemon juice (bottled) for each pint. I fill the jars with juice and salt first then cram in the tomatoes leaving about 1/2 inch of head room in top of jar. I prepare the jars in the dishwasher on sanitize and boil the lids in a pot, however since I don’t add hot liquid to these my jars are not hot. Opinions vary on this, apparently.


First batch- 12 1/2 quarts from about 40 lbs of fresh picked tomatoes

My recipe says to process quart jars for 40 minutes and pint jars for 30 at boiling. The jars are then removed with the jar grabber and placed on a towel on the counter where they will sit, unmoved, for 24 hours.

You will know they are sealed when the lids suck down and do not flex when you press on them. You can hear the pinging of the jars as they seal! Some jars will take several hours to seal as they cool so don’t worry. If your jar doesn’t seal, you can reprocess it.

Altogether, my 100 lbs made 28 quarts of both sliced tomatoes and sauce. Sauce cooks down considerably and the 30 lbs of tomatoes I processed for sauce only made about 7 quarts. I found the best way to cook my tomato sauce was in my turkey roaster, just dropped the sliced, peeled, seeded tomatoes in and let them cook on 350 for a few a hours. You can add all of your seasonings while it’s cooking, however it’s not recommended to add cheese or oil before you can.

I use my canned tomatoes throughout the winter and spring to make spaghetti sauce, chili, taco soup, other sauces and soups. When you open the lid you can smell the difference- it’s like the smell of summer!! I only canned about half as much last year and ran out in the spring, so I’m hoping my 100 lbs will take me into next summer.

My next canning adventure will involve actually using the pressure canner feature, and hopefully not exploding myself.

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A Little Slice Of Sweden In My Basement: The Ikea Billy Bookcases Come To Fruition

The Billys are up! Yes, the same Ikea Billy bookcases that have been lurking in their little flat-pack boxes in my basement since 2013 when I insisted that we purchase them RIGHT NOW.

Ikea Billys have been manufactured continuously for 36 years, and for the last 20 years their price is apparently unchanged. Google “Ikea Billy reviews” and you will find people who have kept their Billys for many many years.

My Billys are clear birch. Yes, they are essentially particleboard but they are covered in a veneer of real wood. The components are substantial and sturdy. The fastening hardware is magical.

Billy units come in four sizes: tall units are 79.5″ by 31.5″ or 15.75″, shorter units are 41.5″ high by 31.5″ or 15.75″. All units are 11 inches deep. Extensions add 13″ to the height. Units can be mixed and matched to fit your space and create a custom look.

Billy Series

We begin: there is nothing like the fresh promise of Ikea parts when you first lay them out on the carpet…


Billy Bookcase Sides

It is also extremely important to employ your local burly-man, particularly one who loves a mallet.


Burly-Man with mallet



Initial Billy building: this is the quintessential 31.5″ Billy.


31.5″ Billy- The Flagship

We add the second bookcase, a 15.75″ Billy. The idea is to create a corner bookcase. We try a few different configurations:

The Ikea corner solution (they sell a corner bracket for this set up. I bought the brackets. I cannot find them in the garage.)


Ikea-Style Corner with 45 degree angle

And here is option two- a basic L-shaped book nook.


Corner with 90 degree angle

We choose option two, it seems to fit the small area better. Now do this 2 more times. Then build the extensions. 80 million pegs later…


Built Billys with extensions on top

It is done.


Billy area with desk (also Ikea) and lamp (also Ikea)

The Billys are fastened to the wall with included L-brackets. Ikea gives you screws and washers but not wall anchors. We used 1″ drywall anchors because that’s what we have. Obviously use the correct anchor for your wall.

We leveled the first unit on the far left, then fastened it to the wall. The next unit was leveled and placed flush with the first. The third unit was placed at a right angle and overlaps the second one slightly and the fourth is level and flush with the 3rd.


Billy Bookcase Sides, butted and slightly overlapped

The extensions are connected to the top of the bookcases with cam locks.


Extension on top of bookcase- cam locks visible on either side

The sides of the bookcases contain a cutaway in the back to fit easily over your baseboard trim (we thought we were going to have to remove the trim– yay!!).

You may have noticed in one of the earlier pictures that one of the bookcases covered up an outlet. We installed a low-profile flat plug extension cord and snaked it under the bookcase via the cutout channel.


Cut-out for baseboard trim, extension cord is routed through

Next project entails installing trim pieces around the edges (between the Billys and the walls) and on the top (between the Billys and the ceiling) to make them look like a built-in unit.






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Home Brew- Home Made Ginger Beverages: Ginger Beer, Part 2

Hello! Welcome to Part Two of my ginger beer experiment. If you missed Part 1 (preparation), click here.

I removed the bottle from the cabinet, opened the lid and poured myself a small glass to taste.


OMG. It’s completely repulsive. There is not nearly enough sugar or citrus or ginger in it and it tastes extremely alcoholic-y, even though I know it can’t be because it hasn’t fermented long enough. It resembles a $2 well vodka drink at the scuzziest bar in town (I would not know ANYTHING about where that might be.) And I think the bread yeast is what’s doing that. It’s definitely not what I was going for. That being said, I think twice the amount of ginger, sugar and citrus may have made it somewhat palatable (over ice, mixed with juice, holding my nose… maybe.) Maybe not.

I am on the fence about trying the yeast method again, so I think I’ll try the ginger ale soda method next and see if I can get a beverage that meets my needs.

So check back in for Part Three, Ginger Ale- soda style.

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Home Brew – Home Made Ginger Beverages: Ginger Beer, Part 1

I’m obsessed with ginger ale and ginger beer. Can’t get enough. I like the super gingery craft beer with the bite, I like the store brand ginger ale with it’s cloying sweetness. Ginger ale/beer is the perfect base for non-alcoholic beverages that are interesting.

So I decided to make my own. There are two ways to make ginger beer:

  • Yeast method: uses fresh ginger, fresh lemon juice, sugar, water and yeast. Place ingredients in a plastic bottle (two liter seems to be the preferred vessel) and allow the yeast to ferment the sugar and create carbonation. Takes about 2 days.
  • Starter method: this method is similar to brewing of kombucha, fermented black tea. You create a starter (a ginger bug) using ginger sugar and lemon, then “feed it” over the course of a few weeks, then mix your starter with more prepared ginger liquid which then ferments and creates carbonation.

Ginger Ale is an easier affair- it’s basically ginger soda and is made by mixing ginger syrup with carbonated water (ala Canada Dry).

I decided to try the yeast method first and make ginger beer. I am going to a dinner party on Saturday and I wanted to bring a little “somethin'” .

I am using Alton Brown’s (Food Network) recipe which is entiled Ginger Ale but is in fact Ginger Beer (because it’s fermented).


1 1/2 ounces finely grated fresh ginger
6 ounces sugar
7 1/2 cups filtered water
1/8 teaspoon active dry yeast
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice


Place the ginger, sugar, and 1/2 cup of the water into a 2-quart saucepan and set over medium-high heat. Stir until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat, cover and allow to steep for 1 hour.

Pour the syrup through a fine mesh strainer set over a bowl, pressing down to get all of the juice out of the mixture. Chill quickly by placing over and ice bath and stirring or set in the refrigerator, uncovered, until at least room temperature, 68 to 72 degrees F.

Using a funnel, pour the syrup into a clean 2-liter plastic bottle and add the yeast, lemon juice and remaining 7 cups of water. Place the cap on the bottle, gently shake to combine and leave the bottle at room temperature for 48 hours. Open and check for desired amount of carbonation. It is important that once you achieve your desired amount of carbonation that you refrigerate the ginger ale. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, opening the bottle at least once a day to let out excess carbonation.

Okay. So the first thing I did is NOT READ THE INSTRUCTIONS CORRECTLY, even though I read them about 50 times. So of course I added the lemon to the syrup. Big woo.

I started grating the ginger with the fine side of my cheese grater which became very tedious almost immediately. So I chopped the rest of the ginger up and threw it in my mini food processer. I put it in a pan with my lemon juice (NO!!) sugar and some lemon zest (because I thought “Why not??”)


The mixture simmered accordingly as I washed out a two-liter bottle.


After the sugar dissolved I removed it from the heat. Then I went to Office Depot to buy ink. Then I went out for dinner. So by the time I returned my syrup was gooood and gingery. I strained the mixture using this:


And also this (although I think the cheesecloth may be overkill). But it was easy to squeeze all the liquid out.


Then added the syrup to the bottle. I used filtered water from my fridge for the remaining 7 cups and also poured it into the bottle (and more lemon juice).


Now it was time to add the yeast: I had an bit of an issue, however. The recipe calls for 1/8 tsp and the smallest measuring spoon I possess is 1/4. So I had to wing it. Many of the recipes you will find online call for brewer’s yeast or champagne yeast. Apparently, if baking yeast is used, the final product can taste..well, yeasty. I’ll be finding out how much of an issue that is.


Okay! So now it’s lurking in my bottom cupboard (too cold in the garage) and should be carbonated in about two days. I will return in two days with results!

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